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and terraced hills that sweep down to sandy beaches, Sikinos offers a true escape.
The main clusters of habitation are the port of Alopronia, and the linked inland villages of Hora and Kastro.
The latter are reached by a 3.
4km road winding up from the port.
There?ˉs a post office at the entrance to Kastro, and an ATM in the central square of Kastro.
The medical centre is next door to the ATM.
In summer, you can hire scooters in Alopronia for around €20.
Getting There & Around The local bus meets all ferry arrivals and runs between Alopronia and Hora/Kastro (€1.
60, 20 minutes) every half-hour in August, but less frequently at other times of the year.
A timetable is sometimes posted near the minimarket.
It?ˉs wise to be in good time at the departure point.
Ferry tickets can be bought at the port at Koundouris Travel ( 6936621946, 22860 51168).
Note that outside of high season, boat services are skeletal.
Boat Services from Sikinos DESTINATION TIME FARE FREQUENCY Anafi 4hr €10 4 weekly Folegandros 40min €5 1-3 daily Ios 20min €5 1-4 daily Kea (Tzia) 11hr €24 2 weekly Kythnos 10?hr €18 2 weekly Naxos 2?hr €8 4 weekly Paros* 3hr 10min €15.
10 1-2 daily Piraeus 8hr 25min €31 4 weekly Santorini (Thira) 1?hr €8 4 weekly Syros 7hr €13 1-3 daily *high-speed services Sights A Venetian fortress that stood here in the 13th century gave Kastro its name.
Today it is a truly charming, lived-in place, with winding alleyways between brilliant white houses.
At its heart is the main square and the Church of Pantanassa.
Check out the buildings surrounding the church which were homes to the town?ˉs weathy merchants; two-storey affairs with remnants of ornate stonework around the windows.
The shells of old windmills cling to the plunging cliffside on the northern side of Kastro.
Also to the north, a flight of whitewashed steps leads to the once- fortified monastery of Moni Zo?dohou Pigis, high above the town.
Originally built as a women?ˉs monastery in 1690, this is where the villagers would hide during pirate attacks.
You can still see the cells where the nuns lived along with their household items and farming tools.
Just west of Kastro, above steeply terraced fields and reached by another flight of steps, is the reclusive, beautiful Hora.
Still home to 15 residents, it?ˉs a patchwork of derelict and well-tended houses and is definitely worth a wander.
From the saddle between Kastro and Hora, a surfaced road leads southwest to Moni Episkopis ( 6.
30pm-8.
30pm) .
The remains here are believed to be those of a 3rd-century AD Roman mausoleum that was transformed into a church in the 7th century and a monastery 10 centuries later.
From here you can climb to a little church and ancient ruins perched on a precipice to the south, from where the views are spectacular.
En route to Episkopis, it?ˉs worth stopping at the Manalis Wine Factory ( 22860 51281; www.manaliswinery.
gr), where wine is produced using self-sustaining, traditional methods.
You can easily spend a day here nibbling on snacks and sipping wine on the view-filled patio.
The beach at Alopronia is small but sandy with some shade and a children?ˉs playground.
A narrow, dramatic bay with a small sandy patch, Agios Nikolaos Beach is a 20-minute walk through the countryside from the port.
The water here is shallow and clear but rocky.
To find it, follow signs to Dialiskari.
Ca?ques (about €6) run to good beaches at Agios Georgios, Malta (which boasts ancient ruins on the hill above) and Karra.
Buses run to these beaches from Alopronia in summer.
Sleeping & Eating You can opt to stay near the port and the beach, but Hora is a more atmospheric place to stay.
Alopronia Lucas Rooms PENSION $ ( 22860 51076; www.sikinoslucas.
gr; Alopronia; d/studios €55/85; ) These rooms are lovingly decorated with bed frames and mirrors handcrafted from local branches or traditional stone floors and blossoms stencilled on the walls.
Rooms are on the hillside, 500m from the port, while studios are on the far side of the bay from the ferry quay.
All have sea-view balconies and plenty of peace.
Porto Sikinos HOTEL $$ ( 22860 51220; www.portosikinos.
gr; Alopronia; s/d/tr incl breakfast €107/135/177; ) Rooms here are traditional tile and marble affairs with waterside balconies.
This is the closest thing to a standard hotel on Sikinos and slightly pricey because of it.
Lucas Taverna TAVERNA $$ (Alopronia; dishes €8-13) Prime location with a large deck built right on the beach, this is the place to come for well-prepared Greek standards without frills, including fish by the kilo.
Kastro Stegadi APARTMENT $$ ( 22860 51271; www.stegadi.com; Kastro) Near the heart of Kastro, these four traditional apartments are each individually decorated with modern furnishings and splashes of vibrant colour.
The balconies are small oases with views across the white village to the sea.
Persefoni?ˉs Rooms PENSION $$ ( 6974181331, 22860 51229; Kastro; s/d/tr €40/60/70) Clean, well-kept studios not far from the square and run by a welcoming family.
Anemelo CAFE $ ( 22860 51216; Kastro; mains €4-6; breakfast, lunch & dinner) With rich colours, exposed rock and swinging lanterns, this is Kastro?ˉs most atmospheric place to grab a local tea, a beer or a simple crepe and salad lunch.
Locals yabber at the tables over chess games or lounge over breakfast at the tables outside.
Hilaxtida CAFE $ ( 22860 51095; Kastro; snacks €3-6; lunch & dinner) Head to this patio on the western edge of town to fill up on nibbles and a great big view over the Aegean.
Kzumataria GREEK $$ ( 22860 51065; Kastro; mains €8-13; lunch & dinner; ) Filling, fresh food, local wine and beaming service greets you on the main road into the village.
Start with buns still warm from the oven and indulge in chicken stuffed with soft cheese, galeus saganaki with lemon, local sausage or platters heaped with mixed grills.
FOLEGANDROS ? POP 667 Folegandros lies on the southern edge of the Cyclades with the Sea of Crete sweeping away to its south.
The island has a bewitching beauty that?ˉs amplified by its alluring cliff-top Hora, one of the most appealing villages in the Cyclades.
Folegandros is barely 12km by 4km but shoulders a somewhat dark past.
The remoteness and ruggedness of the island made it a place of exile for political prisoners from Roman times to the 20th century, and as late as the military dictatorship of 1967¨C74.
Today, the seductive charm of Folegandros has left its grim history behind.
Boats dock at the little harbour of Karavostasis, on the east coast.
The only other settlement of any size is Ano Meria, 4km northwest of Hora.
There are several good beaches, but be prepared for strenuous walking to reach some of them.
BOAT SERVICES FROM FOLEGANDROS DESTINATION TIME FARE FREQUENCY Amorgos* 3hr 20min €59.
60 1 daily Anafi 4?hr €13 5 weekly Ios 1hr 5min €8 1-2 daily Kea (Tzia) 10hr 10min €22 2 weekly Kimolos 1hr 20min €7 5 weekly Koufonisia* 3?hr €56.
20 1 daily Kythnos 7?hr €19 2 weekly Milos 2?hr €9 5 weekly Milos* 1?hr €29.
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