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antos € TAPAS Offline map Google map (Calle Magistral Gonz¨¢lez Franc¨|s 3; tortilla €2.
50) The legendary Santos servesthe best tortilla de patata (potato omelette) in town ¨C and don?ˉt the cordobesesknow it.
Thick wedges are deftly removed from giant wheels of the stuff and customarily served with plastic forks on paper plates to take outside and gaze at theMezquita.
ORGANIC Amaltea €€ Offline map Google map ( 957 49 19 68; Ronda de Isasa 10; mains €10-16; closed dinner Sun; )This intimate riverside spot specialises in organic food and wine, with a serious Middle-Eastern influence (Lebanese-style tabbouleh, couscous).
There?ˉs a goodrange of vegetarian fare.
Drinking & Entertainment C¨?rdoba?ˉs liveliest bars are mostly scattered around the newer parts of town andignite around 11pm to midnight at weekends.
Most bars in the medieval centre closearound midnight.
Bodega Guzm¨¢n BAR Offline map Google map (Calle de los Jud¨aos 7; noon to 4pm & 8pm-midnight, closed Thu) Close to theSinagoga, this atmospheric drinking spot bedecked with bullfighting memorabilia isfrequented by both locals and tourists.
Montilla wine is dispensed from three giantbarrels behind the bar: don?ˉt leave without trying some amargoso (bitter).
Jazz Caf¨| LIVE MUSIC Offline map Google map (Calle Esparter¨aa; 8am-late) Not just for jazzbos, this long-standing club is aslikely to stage electric blues or belly dancing as its namesake style, attracting a varied crowd until the wee hours.
Tuesday nights are reserved for jazz jam sessions.
Caf¨| Bar Autom¨¢tico MUSIC BAR Offline map Google map (Calle Alfaros 4; from 5pm) This is a low-key spot specialising in wacky cocktails and fruit shakes, with alternative rock over a good sound system.
La Pataita de Antonio FLAMENCO Offline map Google map ( 957 49 15 44; www.sensesandcolours.com; Calle Barros 3) ??Antonio?ˉ is renowned flamenco dancer Antonio Mod¨|jar, and this is his project: a living spacefor the art where Young Turks delight aficionados with their dazzling licks.
Performances nightly plus matin¨|es Fridays and Saturdays.
Gran Teatro de C¨?rdoba THEATRE Offline map Google map ( 957 48 02 37; www.teatrocordoba.com; Avenida del Gran Capit¨¢n 3) Thistheatre hosts a busy program of concerts, theatre, dance and film, mostly geared topopular Spanish tastes.
Shopping C¨?rdoba is known for its cuero repujado (embossed leather) goods, silver jewellery(particularly filigree) and attractive pottery.
You?ˉll find craft shops congregatingaround the Mezquita.
Information Most banks and ATMs are around Plaza de las Tendillas and Avenida del GranCapit¨¢n.
The bus and train stations have ATMs.
Hospital Reina Sofia ( 957 21 70 00; Avenida de Men¨|ndez Pidal) Located1.
5km southwest of the Mezquita.
Municipal tourist office ( 902 201774; www.turismodecordoba.org; 9am-2pm & 5-7pm) Opposite the Alc¨¢zar de los Reyes Cristianos.
Polic¨aa Nacional ( 091; Avenida Doctor Fleming 2) The main police station.
Post office (Calle Jos¨| Cruz Conde 15) Regional tourist office (Calle de Torrijos 10; 9am-7.
30pm Mon-Fri, 9.
30am-3pm Sat, Sun & holidays) Inside the Palacio Episcopal.
Getting There & Away Bus The bus station is behind the train station.
Each bus company has its own terminal.
ALSA (www.alsa.es) runs services to Seville (€10.
36, 1? hours, six daily), Granada (€12.
52, 2? hours, seven daily), M¨¢laga (€12.
75, 2? hours, five daily),and Baeza (€10, three hours, one daily).
Secorbus ( 902 229292; www.socibus.es) operates buses to Madrid (€15.
80, 4? hours, six daily).
EmpresaCarrera (www.autocarescarrera.es) heads south, with several daily buses to Priegode C¨?rdoba, Cabra, Zuheros and Izn¨¢jar.
Train C¨?rdoba?ˉs train station ( 957 40 02 02; Glorieta de las Tres Culturas) is on thehigh-speed AVE line between Madrid and Seville.
Rail destinations include Seville(€11 to €33, 40 minutes to 1? hours, 23 or more daily), Madrid (€53 to €68, 1? to6? hours, 23 or more daily), M¨¢laga (€22 to €45, 45 minutes to 2? hours, 16 daily),Barcelona (€138, 4? hours, four daily).
For Granada, change at Bobadilla.
Getting Around Bus 3 (€1.
20), from the street between the train and bus stations, runs to Plaza de lasTendillas and down Calle de San Fernando, east of the Mezquita.
For the return trip,you can pick it up on Ronda de Isasa, just south of the Mezquita.
Taxis from the bus or train station to the Mezquita cost around €7.
For drivers, C¨?rdoba?ˉs one-way system is nightmarish, but routes to many hotelsand hostales are fairly well signposted with a ??P?ˉ if they have parking (€12 to €18per day).
Bicycle C¨?rdoba has installed bicycle lanes throughout town, though they?ˉre stilllittle used.
Bike rentals are available from Solobici Offline map ( 957 48 57 66;www.solobici.net; Mar¨aa Cristina 5; per day €15) , which also offers regional biketours.
GRANADA PROVINCE Who goes to Granada province without first visiting the eponymous city? But onceyou?ˉve paid your respects to Lorca, the Albayz¨an, and the foppish ghosts of theAlhambra, there?ˉs a whole different world waiting on the sidelines.
Much of it isrugged and mountainous.
Granada is home to the mainland?ˉs highest mountainpeaks (the Sierra Nevada) and its only ski station, while on the range?ˉs southernflanks lies the sleeping beauty of the valleys of Las Alpujarras, sprinkled with snaking footpaths and time-stood-still white villages.
Granada?ˉs coastline, the CostaTropical, is centred on salt-of-the-earth Almu?¨|car, an evocative but little-visitedSpanish seaside town.
Granada POP 258,000 / ELEV 685M Boabdil the Moor wasn?ˉt the last departing traveller to shed a farewell tear for Granada, a city of sun-bleached streets and parched earth interspersed with soothingsplashes of green, including the woods and gardens that embellish the sultry Alhambra.
For those who dig deeper, Granada hides a more elusive allure.
This is aplace to put down your guidebook and let your intuition lead the way ¨C throughmysterious labyrinthine streets and shady Moroccan teter¨aas .
What keeps Granada interesting is its lack of any straightforwardness.
Here standsa traditionally conservative city sprinkled with counterculture bohemians, a placewhere modern graffiti has been sprayed provocatively onto 500-year-old walls.
Make no mistake, you?ˉll fall in love here, but you won?ˉt always be able to work outwhy: best idea ¨C don?ˉt bother.
Instead, immerse yourself in the splendour, and leavethe poetic stanzas to the aesthetes.
??Your elegy, Granada, is spoken by the starswhich from the heavens perforate your black heart?ˉ, wrote Federico Garc¨aa Lorca,Granada?ˉs most famous man of letters.
It?ˉs the perfect coda.
History Granada?ˉs history reads like a thriller.
Granada began life as an Iberian settlement inthe Albayz¨an district.
Muslim forces took over from the Visigoths in 711, with theaid of the Jewish community around the foot of the Alhambra hill in what was called Garnata al Jahud, from which the name Granada derives; granada also happens to be Spanish for pomegranate, the fruit on the city?ˉs coat of arms.
After the fall of C¨?rdoba (1236) and Seville (1248), Muslims sought refuge inGranada, where Mohammed ibn Yusuf ibn Nasr had set up an independent emirate.
Stretching from the Strait of Gibraltar
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