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Ca L?ˉIsidre €€€ CATALAN Offline map Google map ( 93 441 11 39; www.calisidre.com; Carrer de les Flors 12; mains €20-70;Mon-Sat, closed Easter & 3 weeks in Aug; Paral?¤lel) Ca L?ˉIsidre is an old-worldgem.
Try artichoke hearts stuffed with mushrooms and foie gras, tuna steak with atomato coulis or lamb?ˉs brains with black butter.
Granja Viader € CAFE Offline map Google map ( 93 318 34 86; www.granjaviader.
cat; Carrer d?ˉen Xucl¨¤ 4; 9am-1.
45pm &5-8.
45pm Tue-Sat, 5-8.
45pm Mon; Liceu) For more than a century, people haveflocked down this alley to get to the cups of homemade hot chocolate and whippedcream (ask for a su¨as ) ladled out in this classic Catalan-style milk-bar-cum-deli.
Can Llu¨as €€€ CATALAN Offline map Google map (Carrer de la Cera 49; meals €30-35; Mon-Sat Sep-Jul; Sant Antoni) Threegenerations have kept this spick-and-span old-time classic in business since 1929.
Expect fresh fish and seafood.
The llenguado (sole) is oven cooked in whisky andraisins.
Casa Leopoldo €€ CATALAN Offline map Google map ( 93 441 30 14; www.casaleopoldo.com; Carrer de Sant Rafael 24; meals around €50; lunch & dinner Tue-Sat, lunch Sun Sep-Jul; Liceu) Severalrambling dining areas in this 1920s classic have magnificent tiled walls and exposed-beam ceilings.
The mostly seafood menu is extensive and the wine liststrong.
The €25 fixed menus ¨C available most weekdays and occasional weeknights¨C offer good value.
Organic € VEGETARIAN Offline map Google map (www.antoniaorganickitchen.com; Carrer de la Junta de Comer? 11; mains €5-8; 12.
45pm-midnight; ; Liceu) Servings at this sprawling vegetarian spot aregenerous and imaginative.
The set lunch costs €9.
50 plus drinks.
LA RIBERA TAPAS Cal Pep €€ Offline map Google map ( 93 310 79 61; www.calpep.com; Pla?a de les Olles 8; mains €8-18; lunchTue-Sat, dinner Mon-Fri Sep-Jul; Barceloneta) Ever-popular Cal Pep has queues around the square with people trying to get in.
And if you want one of thefive tables out the back, you?ˉll need to call ahead.
Most people are happy elbowingtheir way to the bar for some of the tastiest gourmet seafood tapas in town.
Casa Delf¨an € SPANISH Offline map Google map (Passeig del Born 36; mains €4-12; noon-1am; Barceloneta) One of Barcelona?ˉs culinary delights, Casa Delf¨an is everything you dream of when youthink of Catalan (and Mediterranean) cooking.
Meaty monkfish roasted in whitewine and garlic, mussels and clams with Catalan flatbread and many other dishes areall done to perfection.
Le Cucine Mandarosso € ITALIAN( 932 69 07 80; www.lecucinemandarosso.com; Carrer Verdaguer i Callis 4;mains €8, lunch menu €10; lunch & dinner; Urquinaona) This is Italiancomfort food done to perfection.
Combine an outstanding pasta dish with a greensalad, and follow up with some homemade cakes (more can be had at MandarossoPastis, around the corner at Carrer del General Alvarez de Castro 5).
The €10 lunchmenu is exceptionally good value.
Book in advance for dinner.
Pla de la Garsa €€ CATALAN Offline map Google map ( 933 15 24 13; www.pladelagarsa.com; Carrer dels Assaonadors 13; mains€10; dinner; ; Jaume I) This 17th-century house, with its timber beams,anarchically scattered tables and soft ambient music make an enchanting setting forhearty Catalan cooking.
Centre Cultural Euskal Etxea €€€ BASQUE Offline map Google map ( 93 310 21 85; Placeta de Montcada 1; tapas €20-25, meals €35-40; lunch& dinner Tue-Sat, lunch Sun; Jaume I) This Basque eatery is the real deal.
Choose your pintxos (tapas), sip txacoli wine, and keep the toothpicks so the staffcan tally up your bill at the end.
Comer? 24 €€€ INTERNATIONAL Offline map Google map ( 93 319 21 02; www.carlesabellan.com; Carrer del Comer? 24; meals €50-60; Tue-Sat; Barceloneta) The edgy black-red-yellow decor in the rear diningarea lends this culinary cauldron a New York feel.
Chef Carles Abell¨¢n whips upsome eccentric dishes, inspired by everything from sushi to crostini .
Plump for thetasting menu (€54) and leave it up to Abell¨¢n.
LA BARCELONETA & THE COAST Can Maj¨? €€ SEAFOOD Offline map Google map ( 93 221 54 55; Carrer del Almirall Aixada 23; mains €18-24; lunch &dinner Tue-Sat, lunch Sun; 45, 57, 59, 64 or 157, Barceloneta) Virtually onthe beach (with tables outside in summer), Can Maj¨? has a long and steady reputation for fine seafood, particularly its rice dishes and bountiful suquets (fishstews).
Can Ma?o € SPANISH Offline map Google map (Carrer del Baluard 12; mains €8-12; Mon-Sat; Barceloneta) It may looklike a dive, but you?ˉll need to be prepared to wait before being squeezed in at apacked table for a raucous night of raciones (posted on a board at the back) over abottle of turbio ¨C a cloudy white plonk.
The seafood is abundant with first-rate squid, shrimp and fish served at rock-bottom prices.
Vaso de Oro € TAPAS Offline map Google map (Carrer de Balboa 6; tapas €5-9; 10am-midnight; Barceloneta) Alwayspacked, this narrow bar gathers a festive, beer-swilling crowd who come for fantastic tapas.
La Cova Fumada € TAPAS Offline map Google map ( 93 221 40 61; Carrer de Baluard 56; tapas €3-6; 9am-3.
20pm Mon-Wed,9am-3.
20pm & 6-8.
20pm Thu & Fri, 9am-1.
20pm Sat; Barceloneta) This tiny, unsigned tapas spot always packs a crowd.
The secret? Mouth-watering pulpo ,calamar , sardinias and 15 or so other small plates cooked up to perfection in thesmall open kitchen near the door.
The bombas (potato and ham croquettes servedwith alioli) and grilled carxofes (artichokes) are famous.
Xiringuito D?ˉEscrib¨¤ €€ SEAFOOD( 93 221 07 29; www.escriba.es; Ronda Litoral 42; mains €18-22; lunchdaily year-round, dinner Thu-Sat Apr-Sep; Llacuna) The clan that brought youEscrib¨¤ sweets and pastries also operates one of Barcelona?ˉs most popular waterfront seafood eateries.
You can also choose from a selection of Escrib¨¤ pastriesfor dessert ¨C worth the trip alone.
Can Ros €€ SEAFOOD Offline map Google map ( 93 221 45 79; Carrer del Almirall Aixada 7; mains €16-28; Tue-Sun;45, 57, 59, 64 or 157, Barceloneta) The guiding principle from this 1911 classicis straightforward: serve juicy fresh fish cooked with a light touch.
Can Ros alsodoes a rich arr¨°s a la marinera (seafood rice), fideu¨¢ with shrimp and clams and amixed seafood platter for two.
Torre d?ˉAlta Mar €€€ MEDITERRANEAN Offline map Google map ( 93 221 00 07; www.torredealtamar.com; Torre de Sant Sebasti¨¤; mains around €30; lunch & dinner Tue-Sat, dinner Sun & Mon; 17, 39, 57 or 64, Barceloneta) Head 75m skyward to the top of the Torre de Sant Sebasti¨¤ andtake a ringside seat for magnificent city and waterfront views while dining on first-rate seafood.
L?ˉEIXAMPLE TAPAS Tapa? 24 €€ Offline map Google map (www.carlesabellan.com; Carrer de la Diputaci¨? 269; mains €10-20; 9am-midnight Mon-Sat; Passeig de Gr¨¤cia) Carles Abell¨¢n, master of Comer? 24 (Click here ) in La Ribera, runs this basement tapas haven known for its gourmet versions of old faves.
Specials include the bikini (toasted ham and cheese sandwich¨C here the ham is cured and the truffle makes all the difference), a thick black arr¨°snegre de s¨apia (squi
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