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veau Tempel building, dating from 1904 at the southern end of Zdravili?ki trg, is popular with a local crowd.
We love the ??olde worlde?ˉ decor.
Shopping Steklarska Nova HOMEWARES ( 818 20 27; Steklarska ulica 1; 8am-7pm Mon-Fri, 8am-1pm Sat) Roga?ka Slatina is as celebrated for its crystal as it is for its mineral water and this outlet attached to the crystal-making school has a wide range of leaded crystal items for sale.
Information Post Office (Kidri?eva ulica 3) SKB Banka (Kidri?eva ulica 11) Tourist Information Centre Roga?ka Slatina (TIC; 581 44 14; www.rogaska-slatina.
si; Zdravili?ki trg 1; 8am-7pm Mon-Fri, 11am-5pm Sat & Sun Jul & Aug, 8am-4pm Mon-Fri, 8am-noon Sat Sep-Jun) Getting There & Around Bus Buses to Celje (€4.
10, one hour) and Rogatec (€1.
80, 10 minutes) leave Roga?ka Slatina more or less hourly.
There are regular buses to Maribor (€7.
20, 1? hours).
Train Roga?ka Slatina is on the train line linking Celje (€2.
95, 50 minutes) via Rogatec (€1.
10, 10 minutes) and Dobovec with Zabok in Croatia (change for Zagreb).
Rogatec 03 / POP 1605 / ELEV 234M This small town, about 7km east of (and accessible by bus and train from) Roga?ka Slatina, has two important sights worth tarrying over.
Rogatec Open-Air Museum (Muzej na Prostem Rogatec; 818 62 00; www.rogatec.net/muzej; adult/child/senior & student/family €3/2.
30/2.
60/6, with Strmol Manor €5.
40/4.
10/4.
60/10.
80; 10am-6pm Tue-Sun Apr-Oct) , Slovenia?ˉs largest and most ambitious skanzen (open-air village museum) has original structures or replicas including farmhouses, barns, a toplarji (double- linked hayrack) and vintner?ˉs cottage, replicating a typical Styrian farm of the 19th and early 20th centuries.
There are regular displays (including participation) of activities such as weaving, stone-cutting, bread-making and so on.
The colossal, 15th-century Strmol Manor (Dvorec Strmol; 051 322 287, 810 72 22; www.rogatec.net/strmol; adult/child/senior & student/family €5.
40/4.
10/4.
60/10.
80; 10am-6pm Tue-Sun Apr-Oct) has exhibits over five floors.
Don?ˉt miss the restaurant on the 1st floor, with its original open-hearth ?rna kuhinjam (black kitchen); the chapel, with its baroque and Renaissance murals; and the exhibit in the loft, which re-creates an early-20th-century country kitchen, complete with original furnishings and fittings.
THE HAYRACK: A NATIONAL ICON Few things are as Slovenian as the kozolec, the hayrack seen almost everywhere in the country.
Because the Alpine ground can be damp, wheat and hay are hung from racks, allowing the wind to do the drying faster and more efficiently.
Until the late 19th century, the kozolec was just another tool to make a farmer?ˉs work easier and the land more productive.
But when artist Ivan Grohar made it the centrepiece of many of his impressionist paintings, the kozolec became as much a part of the cultural landscape as the physical one.
Today it?ˉs virtually a national icon.
There are many different types of Slovenian hayracks: single ones standing alone or ??goat hayracks?ˉ with sloped ??lean-to?ˉ roofs, parallel and stretched ones and double toplarji (hayracks) , often with roofs and storage areas on top ¨C deserving subjects of an artist?ˉs eye.
Hayracks were traditionally made of hardwood (usually oak).
Today, however, the hayrack?ˉs future is in concrete, and the new stretched ones seem to go on forever.
Ptuj 02 / POP 19,015 / ELEV 224M Rising gently above a wide valley, Ptuj (in English sounding not unlike someone spitting) forms a symphony of red-tile roofs best viewed from across the Drava River.
One of the oldest towns in Slovenia, Ptuj equals Ljubljana in terms of historical importance but the compact medieval core, with its castle, museums, monasteries and churches, can easily be seen in a day.
There are so many interesting side trips and activities in the area that you may want to base yourself here for a while.
History Ptuj began life as a Roman military outpost on the south bank of the Drava River and later grew into a civilian settlement called Poetovio on the opposite side.
By the 1st century AD the largest Roman township in what is now Slovenia, Poetovio was the centre of the Mithraic cult and several complete temples have been unearthed in the area.
Ptuj received its town rights in 977 and grew rich through river trade.
By the 13th century it was competing with the ??upstart?ˉ Marburg (Maribor) upriver, in both crafts and commerce.
Two monastic orders ¨C the Dominicans and the Franciscan Minorites ¨C settled here and built important monasteries.
The Magyars attacked and occupied Ptuj for most of the 15th century.
When the railroad reached eastern Slo?enia from Vienna on its way to the coast in the mid-19th century, the age-old rivalry between Maribor and Ptuj turned one-sided: the former was on the line and the latter missed out altogether.
The town remained essentially a provincial centre with a German majority until WWI.
Ptuj Sights 1Church of St George E2 2Church of Sts Peter and Paul E3 3City Tower D2 4Dominican Monastery A2 5Drava Tower D4 6Fransciscan Minorite Monastery E4 7Late Gothic House D2 8Little Castle B2 9Ljutomer House D2 Miheli? Gallery (see 5) 10Old Town Hall D2 11Orpheus Monument D2 12Peruzzi Portal C2 13Plague Pillar E3 14Provost's House D2 15Ptuj Castle C1 Ptuj Regional Museum (see 15) Ptuj Regional Museum Lapidary & Archaeological Collection (see 4) 16Romanesque House D2 17St Florian Column E2 18Town Hall E3 Activities, Courses & Tours 19Ptujska Vinska Klet F2 Sleeping 20Hostel Eva D4 21Hotel Mitra D2 22Kurent Youth Hostel G2 23MuziKafe D3 24Park Hotel Ptuj B2 Eating 25Amadeus B2 26Cantante Caf¨| C3 27Gostilna Ribi? C3 28Market E2 29Picerija Slon?ek C2 Drinking 30Kavabar Orfej C2 Kavarna Kipertz (see 21) 31Maska Caffe E2 32Trajana D2 Entertainment 33Caf¨| Evropa E2 Sights & Activities Ptuj?ˉs Gothic centre, with its Renaissance and baroque additions, can be viewed on a ??walking tour?ˉ taking in Minoritski trg and Mestni trg, Slovenski trg, Pre?ernova ulica, Muzejski trg and Ptuj Castle.
Minoritski Trg & Mestni Trg SQUARES On the east side of Minoritski trg, which has a plague pillar Offline map Google map (1655), is the massive Minorite monastery Offline map Google map (Minoritski Samostan; 059 073 000; Minoritski trg 1; by appointment) , built in the late 13th century.
Due to its teaching role, it avoided dissolution under Habsburg Emperor Joseph II in the late 18th century, and it has continued to function in Ptuj for more than seven centuries.
The arcaded monastery, which dates from the second half of the 17th century, has a summer refectory on the 1st floor, with beautiful stucco work and a dozen ceiling paintings of St Peter (north side) and St Paul (south side).
It also contains a 5000-volume library of important manuscripts.
About 150m west of the monastery is round Drava Tower Offline map Google map (Dravski Stolp; Dravska ulica 4) , a Renaissance water tower built as a defence against the Turks in 1551.
It houses the Miheli? Gallery Offline map Google map (Miheli?eva Galerija; 787 92 50; admission free; 10am-5pm Tue-Fri, 2-6pm Sat & Sun) , which h
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