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rgest fishing villages.
Here where the road ends, there?ˉs a small summertime cafe .
Information Vard? has a seasonal tourist office ( 78 98 69 07; www.varanger.com; Havnepromenaden; 9am-5pm Mon-Fri, 2-5pm Sat & Sun mid-May¨C Sep) .
Getting There & Away Vard? is a stop on the Hurtigruten coastal ferry route.
Buses follow the scenic seaside route between Vads? and Vard? (1? hours) at least twice daily and two services run to Kirkenes (3? hours) daily except Saturday.
Kirkenes POP 3i500is it: you?ˉre as far east as Cairo, further east than most of Finland, a mere 15km from the border with Russia ¨C and at the end of the line for the Hurtigruten coastal ferry.
It?ˉs also road?ˉs end for the E6, the highway that persistent travellers will have been following along the Arctic Highway ever since southern Norway.
This tiny, nondescript place, anticlimactic for many, has a distinct frontier feel.
You?ˉll see street signs in Norwegian and Cyrillic script and hear Russian spoken by trans-border visitors and fishermen, who enjoy better prices for their catch here than in their home ports further to the east.
The town reels with around 100,000 visitors every year, most stepping off the Hurtigruten to spend a couple of hours in the town before travelling onward.
But you should linger a while here, not primarily for the town?ˉs sake but to take one of the many excursions and activities on offer.
Kirkenes Sights 1 Andersgrotta D3 2 Bear Sculpture B2 3 Russian Monument D2 4 War Mothers Monument C3 Sleeping 5 Barents Frokosthotell C2 6 Rica Arctic Hotel C3 7 Thon Hotel Kirkenes C1 Eating Amundsen (see 8) 8 Ritz B2 Drinking 9 Havna Pub B1 10 Rallar'n A2 Entertainment 11 Ofelas B2 Ritz (see 8) Shopping 12AMFI Shopping MallA2 History The district of S?r-Varanger, with Kirkenes as its main town, was jointly occupied by Norway and Russia until 1926, when the Russian, Finnish and Norwegian borders were set.
In 1906 iron ore was discovered nearby and Kirkenes became a major supplier of raw materials for artillery during WWI.
Early in WWII the Nazis coveted its resources and strategic position not far from the Russian port of Murmansk.
They occupied the town and posted 100,000 troops there.
As a result, tiny Kirkenes was, after Malta, the most bombed place during WWII, with at least 320 devastating Soviet raids.
The town was also an internment site for Norwegians from all over the country who did not cooperate with the Nazi occupiers.
The retreating forces burned to the ground the little left of Kirkenes before advancing Soviet troops liberated its ruins in October 1944.
Subsequently rebuilt, it continued to supply iron ore to much of Europe, became economically unviable in 1996 ¨C and reopened in 2009, this time run by Northern Iron Ltd, an Australian company.
A FORBIDDING FRONTIER Don?ˉt even think about stepping across the Russian border for a photo.
Nowadays, in addition to vestiges of old Cold War neuroses on both sides, Norway, as a Schengen Agreement country, is vigilant in keeping illegal immigrants from entering.
Both Norwegian and Russian sentries are equipped with surveillance equipment and the fine for illegal crossing, even momentarily, starts at a whopping Nkr5000.
Using telephoto or zoom lenses or even a tripod all qualify as violations.
As the guidance document sternly warns: ??It is prohibited to intentionally make contact with, or act in an insulting manner towards persons on the other side of the border and to throw items across the borderline.
Any attempts at violations will be punished as if they had been carried out?ˉ.
You have been warned! Sights & Activities For such a small place, Kirkenes offers a wealth of tours and activities in and around town.
For an overview according to season, pick up one of the tourist office?ˉs comprehensive brochures, Summer Activities and Winter Activities .
There?ˉs a summertime reservation point ( 48 18 97 97; www.incomingkirkenes.
no; 10am-3pm Jun-Aug) in the lobby of the Rica Hotel.
Principal Tour Agencies Arctic Adventure (www.arctic-adventure.
no; Jarfjordbotn) Barents Safari (www.barentssafari.
no) Pasvikturist (www.pasvikturist.
no; Dr Wessels gate 9) Radius (www.radius-kirkenes.com; Kongensgate 1-2) Summer Activities The following activities are popular from late June to mid-August.
King crab safari (adult/child Nkr1290/645) Half-day tours of the Pasvik Valley (adult/child Nkr800/400) Visiting the Russian border and iron-ore mines (adult/child Nkr480/240) Boat trips along the Pasvik river , which demarcates the Norway¨CRussia border (adult/child from Nkr840/400) Winter Activities Activities to try between December and mid-April: Snowmobile safaris (from Nkr1150) Ice fishing (Nkr790) Snowshoe walks (Nkr750) Dog-sledding (from Nkr1250) King crab safari (adult/child Nkr1290/645) Book through the tourist office, at most hotels or directly with tour operators.
Grenselandsmuseet FOLK MUSEUM (F?rstevannslia; adult/child Nkr50/free; 10am-6pm Jul¨Cmid-Aug, 10am- 2pm rest of year) This well-presented frontier museum, 1km from the centre, illustrates the geography and culture of the border region with special displays on WWII and mining.
Within it, the Savio collection displays the distinctive woodblock prints of local Sami artist John A Savio (1902¨C38), whose works evoke the tension between indigenous life and the forces of nature.
Andersgrotta WWII AIR-RAID SHELTER Offline map Google map (Tellef Dahls gate; admission Nkr100; visits 10.
30am & 11am) Drop down the steep stairs of Andersgrotta into this cave that once served as an air-raid shelter and bunker as wave upon wave of Russian bombers sought to knock out the Nazi ore shipping facility.
There?ˉs a multilingual presentation, and a nine-minute video also tells the tale.
Wrap up warmly since the temperature is 3??C, even in summer.
Gabba Reindeer & Husky Park REINDEER PARK (adult/child Nkr275/50; 10am-3pm Jun-Sep) This may not be so much of a treat for the children if you?ˉve been driving in Eastern Finnmark and stopped to relate to communing roadside reindeer.
But it?ˉs worth the visit if you?ˉve just rolled in on the Hurtigruten and they?ˉll enjoy petting the huskies too.
Russian Monument WAR MEMORIAL Offline map Google map Located up a short hill, it?ˉs dedicated to the Red Army troops who liberated the town in 1944.
War Mothers Monument WAR MEMORIAL Offline map Google map In the town square, it commemorates women?ˉs efforts during the war.
Bear Sculpture SCULPTURE Offline map Google map Outside the Russian consulate, there?ˉs an engaging little sculpture of a bear mounting ¨C in every sense of the word, it would appear ¨C a lamppost.
RUSSIAN MARKET On the last Thursday of most months, Russian merchants set up shop around the town centre, selling everything from craftwork to binoculars.
Prices aren?ˉt as cheap as in Russia, but they?ˉre still a bargain for Norway.
Sleeping Sollia Gjesteg?rd HOTEL €€ ( 78 99 08 20; www.storskog.
no; 2-/6-bed cabins Nkr750-1050, d from Nkr750) The Sollia, 13km southeast of Kirkenes, was originally constructed as a tuberculosis sanatorium and you can see why.
The air could scarcely be purer or the atmosphere more relaxed at this wonderful getaway haven.
The whole family can sweat it out in the sauna and outdoor tub, while
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