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Nordkapp & Mager?ya POP 3200kapp is the one attraction in northern Norway that everybody seems to visit even if it is a tourist trap.
Billing itself as the northernmost point in continental Europe, it sucks in visitors by the busload, some 200,000 every year.
Nearer to the North Pole than to Oslo, Nordkapp sits at latitude 71?? 10?ˉ 21?±N, where the sun never drops below the horizon from mid-May to the end of July.
Long before other Europeans took an interest, it was a sacrificial site for the Sami, who believed it had special powers.
Richard Chancellor, the English explorer who drifted here in 1553 in search of the Northeast Passage, first gave it the name North Cape.
Much later, after a highly publicised visit by King Oscar II in 1873, Nord-kapp became a pilgrimage spot for Norwegians.
It?ˉs also, bizarrely, one for Thais, of all people, thanks to a visit by King Chulalongkorn in 1907.
Now here?ˉs a secret: Nordkapp isn?ˉt continental Europe?ˉs northernmost point.
That award belongs to Knivskjelodden, an 18km-round-trip hike away, less dramatic, inaccessible by vehicle ¨C and to be treasured all the more for that.
Getting There & Away There are a few options for getting to and from Nordkapp and Mager?ya.
The Hurtigruten coastal ferry calls by Honningsv?g.
Its 3?-hour northbound stop allows passengers a quick buzz up to Nordkapp.
An express bus connects Honningsv?g with Alta (Nkr405, four hours, one to two daily) and there?ˉs also a run to/from Hammerfest (Nkr390, 3? hours, one to two daily).
The road approach from the E6 is via Olderfjord, where the E69 branches north.
The one-way toll for the 6.
8km-long Nordkapptunnelen is a heavy Nkr145 for a saloon car and driver plus Nkr47/24 per adult/child passenger ¨C nothing compared to the Nkr460 exacted for a motor home.
Getting Around Car & Motorcycle Until the blacktop road to Nordkapp was constructed in the mid-1950s, all access was by boat.
Nowadays, the route winds across a rocky plateau past herds of grazing reindeer.
Depending upon snow conditions, it?ˉs open to private traffic from April to mid-October.
In fringe months, ring the tourist office if the weather looks dicey.
A taxi to/from Nordkapp from Honningsv?g costs Nkr1300, including an hour of waiting at the cape ¨C plus that Nkr235 admission charge per passenger.
In Honningsv?g, Avis ( 78 47 62 22) has a special five-hour deal on car hire for Nkr870, including petrol and insurance.
The Shell petrol station ( 78 47 60 60) offers a similar four-hour deal for Nkr950.
Public Transport Between mid-May and late August, a local bus (adult/child Nkr100/50, 45 minutes) runs daily at 11am and 9.
30pm between Honningsv?g and Nordkapp.
It sets off back from the cape at 1.
15pm and 12.
45am (so that you can take in the midnight sun at precisely midnight).
From 1 June to 15 August, there?ˉs a supplementary run at 5pm, though this returns at 6.
15pm, giving you barely half an hour at Nordkapp unless you want to hang around for the service that returns at 12.
45am.
If you?ˉre on a budget, scan carefully the terms of any inclusive tours, which probably charge considerably more for similar services.
And bear in mind that even if you arrive by bus, you still get dunned for that Nkr235 entry fee.
NORDKAPP & AROUND So you?ˉve finally made it to Europe?ˉs northernmost rip-off ¨C an opinion shared by the regular emails we receive from readers who?ˉve felt exploited.
To reach the tip of the continent, by car, by bike, on a bus or walking in, you have to pay a toll (adult/child Nkr235/80).
This allows unlimited entry over two days but it?ˉs small compensation for the majority who simply roll in, look around, take a snap or two and roll out.
This vast bunker of a place, topped by a giant, intrusive golf ball, is a love/hate kind of place.
Within are a tediously detailed account of WWII naval actions off the cape, a cafeteria and restaurant, the striking Grotten bar with views of Europe?ˉs end through its vast glass wall, a one-room Thai museum, the St Johannes chapel (??the world?ˉs northernmost ecumenical chapel?ˉ), a post office (for that all-important Nordkapp postmark) and an appropriately vast souvenir shop.
A five-screen, 120-degree theatre runs an enjoyable 17-minute panoramic film.
But it?ˉs the view that thrills the most.
In reasonable weather ¨C which is a lot of the time ¨C you can gaze down at the wild surf 307m below, watch the mists roll in and simply enjoy the moment.
KNIVSKJELODDEN The continent?ˉs real northernmost point, Knivskjelodden, is mercifully inaccessible to vehicles and devoid of tat.
Lying about 3km west of Nordkapp, it sticks its finger a full 1457m further northwards.
You can hike to the tip of this promontory from a marked car park 6km south of the Nordkapp toll booth.
The 9km track, waymarked with giant cairns, isn?ˉt difficult despite some ups and downs, but it?ˉs best to wear hiking boots since it can be squelchy.
When you get to the tall beehive-shaped obelisk at latitude 71?? 11?ˉ 08?±N, down at sea level, sign the guest book.
Should you wish, note down your reference number from the book and you can buy ¨C nothing but the hike comes free on this island ¨C a certificate (Nkr50) authenticating your achievement from Nordkapp Camping or the tourist office.
Allow five to six hours round trip.
Sleeping Astoundingly, you can spend the night in your motor home or caravan at Nordkapp itself (fill up on water and electricity though, because you won?ˉt find any there for the taking).
Kirkeporten Camping CAMPGROUND € ( 78 47 52 33; www.kirkeporten.
no; Storvannsveien 2, Skarsv?g; per person/site Nkr20/150, r with shared bathroom Nkr350-550, cabins with outdoor bathroom Nkr500-575, 2-/4-bed cabins with bathroom Nkr850/950; mid-May¨CAug) Just outside the hamlet of Skarsv?g , this is another welcoming campsite, a favourite of British adventure tour groups.
Its claim to be the ??world?ˉs northernmost camping?ˉ stands up; there?ˉs a rival on Svalbard but it?ˉs without cabins.
The cosy cafe does reindeer, a fresh-fish dish daily special (both Nkr160), a bubbling tureen of soup (Nkr75) and pizzas (Nkr115).
HONNINGSV?G POP 2400ingsv?g is by far the island?ˉs largest settlement.
Sights & Activities Honningsv?g?ˉs Nordkapp Museum ( 78 47 72 00; www.nordkappmuseet.
no; Fiskeriveien 4; adult/child Nkr50/10; 10am- 7pm Jun¨Cmid-Aug, noon-4pm Mon-Fri rest of year) , upstairs and in the same block as the tourist office, illustrates the impact of early visitors to the cape, the hard days in the immediate aftermath of WWII and the daily life of a town that, until the advent of tourism, lived primarily from the sea.
The 19th-century church (Kirkegata; 8am-10pm mid-May¨Cmid-Sep) was the only building in town to survive the Nazis?ˉ scorched-earth retreat in 1944.
For a time it was a communal dwelling until the first new houses were hastily erected.
Sleeping Northcape Guesthouse GUESTHOUSE € ( 47 25 50 63; www.northcapeguesthouse.com; Elvebakken 5a; dm Nkr250, d with shared bathroom Nkr600; May-Aug) A 15- to 20-minute walk from the Hurtigruten quay, this bright, modern hostel is an excellent budget choice.
There?ˉs a cosy lounge, washing machine, well-equipped kitchen for self- caterers ¨C and grea
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