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lacier Museum and B?yabreen glacier.
The earlier tour also takes in the Supphellebreen glacier and leaves plenty of bookshop-browsing time before you catch the ferry back to Balestrand.
Alternatively, a taxi from the Fj?rland dock to B?yabreen, with waiting time, costs about Nkr800 return.
Sleeping & Eating Hotel Mundal HOTEL €€€ ( 57 69 31 01; www.hotelmundal.
no; s/d from Nkr1120/1700; May- Sep; ) Retaining much of its period furniture and run by the same family ever since it was built in 1891, it features a welcoming lounge and a lovely round tower.
Invest Nkr24000 and you can sleep the night in the tower’s one room with wraparound views – as did US ex-president Walter Mondale, whose family came from Mundal, and the present Queen of Norway (not, as the charming receptionist explains, on the same occasion).
The restaurant serves truly wonderful traditional four-course Norwegian dinners (Nkr360).
Because the food comes fresh, nonguests need to book by 6pm at the latest.
On one wall of its Mikkel Kaffe , a cafe with a mountaineering theme, there’s a giant evocative 1898 map of Sognefjorden.
Mrs Haugen’s Rooms GUESTHOUSE € ( 57 69 32 43; d Nkr400-500; May–mid-Oct) In the white building behind the village church, Mrs Alma Haugen rents just a couple of rooms with shared kitchen and bathroom that represent outstanding value.
The welcome’s particularly warm, just like stepping into a friendly home and a special delight if you’ve spent night after night in clone hotels or cabins.
B?yum Camping CAMPGROUND € ( 57 69 32 52; www.fjaerland.org/boyumcamping; campsites Nkr150, dm Nkr160, d Nkr270-340 with shared bathroom, 4-/8-bed cabins Nkr710/1010; May-Sep) Beside the Glacier Museum and 3km from the ferry landing, B?yum Camping has something for all pockets and sleeping preferences, including a great view of the B?yabreen glacier at the head of the valley.
Br?vasshytta Cafeteria CAFE € ( 8am-8pm May-Sep) Do visit the Br?vasshytta, built into the moraine of B?yabreen’s latest major advance, even if it’s only for a cup of coffee.
With the glacier right there and in your face, it’s like eating in an IMAX cinema, but for real.
There’s also a good cafeteria at the glacier museum.
Information Fj?rland’s exceptionally friendly tourist office ( 57 69 32 33; www.fjaerland.org; 10am-6pm May-Sep) is within the Bok & Bilde bookshop on the main street, 300m from the ferry point.
It displays a full list of accommodation options, together with prices, on the main door.
Getting There & Away A car ferry (Nkr215/325 one way/return, 1? hours) runs twice daily between Balestrand and Fj?rland in July and August (in May, June and September there’s a daily passenger-ferry run).
Buses bypass the village and stop on the Rv5 near the glacier museum.
Three to six run daily to/from Sogndal (Nkr73, 30 minutes) and Stryn (Nkr200, two hours).
Getting Around Both the tourist office (Nkr30/140 per hour/day) and B?yum Camping (Nkr25/125 per hour/day) rent bikes.
Jostedalen & Nigardsbreen The Jostedalen valley pokes due north from Gaupne, on the shores of Lustrafjord.
This slim finger sits between two national parks: long established Jostedalsbreen on the west side and, to its east, Breheimen national park, Norway’s newest, recognised in 2009.
It’s a spectacular drive as the road runs beside the milky turquoise river, tumbling beneath the eastern flank of the Nigardsbreen glacier.
MISSING THE BOAT Should you be unfortunate enough to miss the last ferry shuttle back over Nigardsvatnet, there’s always a rowing boat left at the landing point for the use of the unwary.
Of the Jostedalsbreen glacier tongues visible from below, Nigardsbreen is the most dramatic and easy to approach.
There are several walks in its vicinity that families can undertake.
If you’re an experienced walker and fancy communing alone with (but not on) the ice, nip further up the road past the braided glacial streams at F?bergst?lsgrandane to the dam that creates the big glacial lake, Styggevatnet.
Along the way you’ll find several scenic glacial tongues and valleys offering excellent wild hiking.
Sights Breheimsenteret Visitors Centre VISITORS CENTRE ( 57 68 32 50; www.jostedal.com; 9am-7pm mid-Jun–mid-Aug, 10am- 5pm May–mid-Jun & mid-Aug–Sep; ) Soaring skywards, its sweeping lines representing two abutting snow walls, the centre’s a striking introduction to Nigardsbreen.
Lying 34km up the valley from Lustrafjord, it has a display (adult/child Nkr50/35) that tells how glaciers were formed and how they sculpt the landscape.
There’s also a 20-minute film on the area and an exhibit on the girl Jostedalsrypa, the only villager to survive the Black Death.
It also carries a worthwhile free pamphlet, Walking in Jostedal, that describes a number of short (one- to 2?-hour) walks.
Activities You can book directly or at the visitors centre for each of these outfits.
Ice Troll KAYAKING, GLACIER WALKING ( 970 14 370; www.icetroll.com) Andy – from New Zealand and with a decade of guiding experience on Nigardsbreen – and his team offer a couple of truly original glacier visits.
After a kayak trip, enjoy an ice walk where those without paddles never get.
Both, lasting eight to 10 hours (Nkr890), are suitable for first-timers as well as the more experienced.
They also do longer overnight and two-day sorties.
Riverpig RAFTING ( 970 14 370; www.icetroll.com) Run by the same outfit, Riverpig does white water rafting on the Jostedalen river (Nkr650) and, for the truly hardy, riverboarding (Nkr800).
Jostedalen Bref?rarlag GLACIER WALKS ( 57 68 31 11; www.bfl.
no) Leads several guided glacier walks on Nigardsbreen.
The easiest is the family walk to the glacier snout and briefly along its tongue (around one hour on the ice, adult/child Nkr200/100).
Fees for the two- hour (Nkr430), three-hour (Nkr525) and five-hour (Nkr740) walks on the ice include the brief boat trip across Nigardsvatnet lake.
Leirdalen Bre og Juv CANYON CLAMBERING, GLACIER HIKING (Leirdal Glacier & Canyon; 470 27 878; www.breogjuv.
no) Offers canyon clambering (Nkr500) and six- to eight-hour glacier hikes (Nkr650) on Tunsbergsdalsbreen, Norway’s longest glacier arm.
Raudskarvfjellet Turriding PONY TREKKING ( 57 68 32 50; www.jostedal-horseguiding.
no) Less strenuously, take a five- hour pony trip (Nkr700) with these stables.
Sleeping & Eating Two sisters run the valley’s most tempting sleeping options.
Jostedal Camping CAMPGROUND € ( 57 68 39 14; www.jostedalcamping.
no; car/caravan sites Nkr90/110 plus Nkr25 per person, 4-bed cabins with outdoor bathroom Nkr350-470, fully equipped bungalows, up to 6 persons Nkr1050; May–mid-Oct) Astrid, after travelling and working around the world, has returned to her home village and with her partner runs this trim, well kept campground, right beside the Jostedal river.
Both keen hikers, they’ve researched a range of local walks, described with photos on the camp bulletin board.
Facilities are impeccable and there’s a lovely riverside terrace.
All in all, fit for royalty – as indeed it was briefly, when Britain’s Prince William stayed here on a university field trip.
Jostedal Hotel HOTEL €€ ( 57 68 31 19; www.josted
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